CLUBSWAN MEMBERS EXPERIENCE Swan 115 Shamanna from Panama to New Zealand

Daniel Calascione, Swan 115 Shamanna skipper, shares with us the diary he used to send to family members documenting the trip from Panama to the Galapagos Islands. Enjoy! 

“Chapter 1 – The Panama Canal   

[…] The Panama Canal’s strategic purpose is clear. Why sail thousands of miles in treacherous waters when you can cut right through the Americas. [..] 

1600 Enter lock 1. A chamber with the purpose of lifting ships up to 350 metres in length 10 metres above sea level.  We were accompanied by a large cargo vessel. Shortly after entering and making off lines the giant lock doors swing majestically behind us closing us off from what was. Almost immediately after the Atlantic side is shut off the flood gates in front open allowing 26 million litres of fresh water to fill up the chamber and we rise up ten metres. We do this process three times until we are 30 metres above the Atlantic Ocean. The last set of lock doors open us into a dusked tranquil lake scattered with jungle infested islands. Gatun Lake. The lake that just exclusively provided us with 75 million litres of fresh rain water just to get halfway through the canal. After motoring through the jungle for two hours we anchor for the night and our pilot gets picked up. I can’t describe the surrealistic feeling of waking up the next morning anchored in the lake above and between the oceans, surrounded by dense jungle noises with towering 300 metre cargo vessels gliding past our small anchorageREAD MORE 

Two hours of motoring brings us to the next set of locks where we begin our decent down into the Pacific Ocean. Similar process to the first set of locks only this time we are entering filled locks and the water is being drained from the chambers causing us to fall 30 metres to sea level. 

Those last grand chamber doors opening the pathway into the Pacific was spectacular. Entering into this new ocean immediately felt special. You could feel the air and water teeming with life and energy. It was hard to believe that just over a month ago we were still in a tent in Palma being put back together after a ground-breaking repair and now the opening of these Pacific gates represented a new redeeming chapter for us, one filled with adventure and exploration. 

  

Chapter 3 – Enchanted island of abundance 

The 36-hour delivery to Coco’s was easy. A lot of rain and lightning squalls with little wind. As we approached the island the skies cleared and the full moon flaunted the silhouette of a towering volcanic structure. The bay was eerily calm and entering under full moon was magical.  Already the sense of humility at being mere humans was tangible. We were in a world dominated by nature and animals and it felt that way. We anchored what seemed to be quite close to the shore, in 20 meters of water and went to sleep with a giddy excitement to sleep quickly just to be able to wake up the next day. 

The morning superseded our mentally exaggerated expectations. The island was dripping with life. The trees growing out of the sheer cliff face were strewn with creepers. There were plants growing on plants growing on trees that were growing on other trees.  Spectacular waterfalls flowing down into the solitary bay we were in. […] The predominant feeling was just that we are humble visitors to a foreign land commanded by something much greater than ourselves. Something the world was at one time in the past when nature dominated. The island was a time warp to an age before humans. 

The following morning we hiked from the beach up the closest hill to get a birds eye view of the incredible coastline and to see Shamanna sitting alone in paradise. We motored round to Wafer bay later that morning anchoring just below an 80 metres waterfall and went on another dive where we saw tons of hammerhead sharks. What an experience! […] 

  

Chapter 4 – the Galapagos 

What an experience this jagged archipelago was. The first port we arrived to was Puerto Baquerizo Morena, a small sleepy town where sea lions rule the land. Scattered on all the beaches and town benches the sea lion life seems utopian. Persistent playing and surfing waves, lazy sleeping and napping anywhere they can and occasionally some fishing, sign me up! […] 

Shamanna was truly in her element. I can’t think of a better vehicle from which to enjoy such an incredible wildlife zoo. Her clean and minimal deck allows for an uninterrupted slide show of the wonders of the islands. […] 

The clear distinctiveness of these islands comes from the ecological diversity of animal and plant life that exists within and between all the islands. […] 

Exploring the Galapagos was like watching evolution in real time. Variations of species all co-habitating distinctly different neighbouring islands allowed you to see phenotypic changes amongst and between species as a result of adaptation to environment. […] 

It was while swimming with them in Punta Vicente Roca that Champi, our incredible knowledge-rich guide, shouted from the tender, WHALE! We all jumped on-board and drove alongside a 25 metre Blue whale travelling at 25 knots of speed. The blue whale shoots hot air through its spout, which condenses in the air and looks like it is shooting out water up to 10 metres into the air.  

  

Chapter 5 –  The crossing 

My dad Andrew, mum Steph, sister Ally, wife Emma, Son Jack, chef James, stew Ola, mate Declan and the new arrival Lottie are the consortium of people about to sail Shamanna across the Pacific Ocean to the remote Marquesas islands. […] 

Sailing Shamanna into the eternal line up of long rolling blue hills was magical. She was truly in her element as were all of us. As you look forward to the horizon you immediately understand why the Mar Pacifico is so named. The peaceful feeling it evokes through the gentle swell and mild conditions is inescapable. […] 

The last two days saw some fantastic spinnaker sailing during the days and motor sailing at night.  Our route from Galapagos was slightly more northerly than the conventional southern route. The trades started off more south of east and as the days progressed it was due to turn more easterly. For this reason, we tried to place ourselves north of Rhumb line. It worked wind-wise however by day 4 we found ourselves battling a 2.5 knot current against. This equatorial counter current has a bottom line of 4 degrees north latitude and we were only at 0 Degrees. However, we determined that it must be running at lower latitudes than normal. Due to this current we spent a couple of days heading more south to try and escape. Today we came out of the current and are now sailing on course, 255 COG with spinnaker up at 12 knots SOG. 

As we sail west with clear days and moonlit nights we grow closer to nature and further from everything else and it’s a wonderful feeling.